Slathering On A Rich Eye Cream To Prevent Wrinkles
We've been under the impression that the thicker the eye cream, the better it is for our wrinkles. Many heavy eye creams typically contain heavy oils like mineral oil or petrolatum. These unhealthy ingredients sit on the surface and suffocate the skin. They can also migrate into the eyes while you're sleeping, causing excessive puffiness and morning irritation. Your skin acts as a sponge — it absorbs what it needs and the rest just sits on the surface. If you are using an eye cream, it should be absorbed, yet still leave the skin feeling moist and supple. Too much of anything just leads to congestion and build-up, and may actually exacerbate the look of wrinkles.
In my Master's of Esthetics program, I was taught that eye creams are non-essential. Any light moisturizer safe for the face should suffice. Eye creams often contain desiccating/drying ingredients (similar to Preparation H and caffeine...) to pull out the edema/puffiness. Morning under-eye puffiness is caused by many things: poor circulation, eating salty foods at night, yawning, and sleep, where the flat nature of the body for 7-8 hours makes for improper drainage of the fluid around the eyes. While eating less salt at night or propping your head up by sleeping on two pillows can help with drainage and prevent some puffiness, it’s virtually impossible to completely avoid it. Putting chemicals on the delicate eye tissue to pull out water is only temporary, and can be detrimental in the long run. Why would one want to pull out hydration from the skin, especially in one of the most fragile areas of your face? Your best bet is to apply the lightest application of an hydration serum, followed with the tiniest dot of an antioxidant emollient moisturizer over top to hold in the hydration.
But those dark circles are still there... True, dark pigmentation is usually genetic, and more prevalent in some ethnicities. Basically, nothing can be done to change that. However, there are fantastic concealers that can disguise most of it.
Allergic Shiners, or dark circling under the eyes can be due to unhealthy diet, poor circulation, allergies, lack of certain nutrients, some diseases, a congested liver, chemotherapy, and compromised immunity. Smoking, stress, alcohol, and sun damage will age the eyes more rapidly. Wear polarized sunglasses in bright sun.
Lack of sleep - this needs no explanation. You know how to fix this one.
Capillary fragility: tiny capillaries break under the skin and have a blue-ish - dark cast. Some studies suggest supplementation with Vitamin C & Bioflavonoids, and Vitamin K may help.
Fat Loss: Something most all of us desire... except around our eyes. As we age, the tissue thins around the eyes, and the fatty 'padding' around the ocular opening lessens as well. The eyes may appear more sunken and hooded, shadowing the eye. You can see the same things happening on the back of your hands. Tissue is thinner, veins look very blue and pronounced, and there is less fat cushioning.
One other thing... Some people experience yellowing or other discolorations under the eye. This can be due to cholesterol deposition, xanthomas (enlarged sweat glands), and milia (hardened little 'pearls' under the skin). See the blog article on Milia for more information.
Those crepe-y patches may not necessarily be dry skin; it could be congestion and built-up dead skin, or a severe lack of hydration.
I have had clients with flaky eyelids. Again, it may not be dry skin, but build-up from eye products, especially makeup primers.
Red, itchy, sometimes crusty lids/lashes can be due to systemic allergies, product allergies, and occasionally demodex skin mites.
Night-time Moisturizers Again, another topic of controversy, in my ever so humble opinion. Your skin requires certain basics: Cleansing/Exfoliation, Hydration, Emollient Moisturization, Supplementation, and Protection. Exfoliation is dependent upon your skin type and condition. Of course, no sunscreen at bedtime. It is fine to use a gentle cleanser in the morning, and a deeper cleanser at the end of the day to remove makeup and environmental substances off the face. Always hydrate AND moisturize over-top. Vitamin C serum is the only exception... Only apply it at bedtime after your hydration serum, followed with you moisturizer. Vitamin C oxidizes in sunlight, rendering it ineffective. So, do you really need a DIFFERENT moisturizer at bedtime? No. Use a good quality antioxidant-rich moisturizer/serum morning and evening. Skinplicity carries wonderful, antioxidant-packed moisturizing serums. So beneficial and effective, I only recommend a pea-sized amount. You should NEVER feel like you have to put on a heavy, gooey concoction on your face or eyes. Save your money and time. Do not be fooled by separate multi-step protocols for day and evening.